DIY wooden fence


Fences made of wood are considered the most short-lived. After all, not everyone knows (or does not want to know) the secrets of wood and its processing.

Neoa processed pine fence will indeed last no more than 10 years, and even then, provided that the lower part of the pillar is waterproofed. If you are making a temporary fence for the period of construction and improvement, then this is a completely justified decision.

Another thing is when wood is chosen as a building material not because of its cheapness, but because of the possibilities of design. After all, wood is considered the most malleable material for decorative processing.

This is what the fence looks like from the first photo from the side of the yard. Agree, no less attractive …

Pay attention to the contour of the boards: how much «attention» was paid to each of them, how carefully the edges are worked out and the corners are smoothed… The photo shows the sliding gates of the same yard.

And how many design techniques exist: firing, tinting, the effect of aging, combining with forged overlays, and finally, just perfect grinding and coating with yacht varnish.

Design options for wooden fences are given at the end of the article.

Having invested labor (or money) in the creation of a masterpiece of wooden architecture, I want to admire it for as long as possible. Therefore, there are a number of important points that the owner of the estate should know.


Choose for the fence those wood species that are distinguished by high density: Siberian larch, oak, mulberry, acacia, aspen, alder, ash. By the way, a Siberian larch fence can be called eternal — from contact with water, the wood of this tree, on the contrary, grows stronger.

Limit the use of pine to the creation of a fence board — in case of rapid wear, it is not difficult to replace it. In no case do not put a birch fence — it has the most unstable wood.

support poles for a wooden fence can be wooden, metal or made of masonry.

The last two options will serve as a reliable support for many years to come. But do not write off the tree. It doesn’t have to be buried in the ground.

To extend the service life, you can use special metal consoles (supports), which are concreted, and then a wooden beam is attached to them (see link on the side).

The most vulnerable part sawn wood — one where the cut is made across the grain. To extend the life of a wooden fence will help the horizontal arrangement of boards or a protective visor over those standing vertically.

Wood is vulnerable when it comes into direct contact with air: when wet, it swells and is affected by fungus; too dry contributes to its cracking. You can reduce the risks due to mandatory treatment: impregnation with an antiseptic plus painting with special dyes (Swedish paint, yacht varnish, impregnation with hot drying oil).


This is a homemade mixture of the following composition:

  • iron (copper) vitriol — 260 g,
  • iron minium — 260 g,
  • table salt — 260 g,
  • rye flour — 580 g,
  • drying oil or linseed oil — 240 ml,
  • water — about 4.5 liters.

The consumption of the composition is approximately 200-300 ml / m2. Color — golden. If you need a different shade, then red lead can be replaced with ocher or manganese peroxide.

The coloring composition is prepared as follows: the flour is mixed with 3 liters of water and the paste is boiled, passed through a sieve to avoid lumps, put on fire again and add ferrous sulfate and salt, stirring constantly until the vitriol is completely dissolved, continuing to stir, pour in small portions first oil (linseed oil) then water (until a liquid homogeneous consistency is obtained).

Apply the paint immediately, because it thickens quickly. Therefore, it is better to work with two or three people, or divide the composition into smaller portions and cook it as it is spent.


The step of the supporting pillars is 2-3 m.

As supports, choose a round or square beam with a section of 100×100 mm or a metal pipe with a section of 40×40, 40×60, 60×60 mm (with a wall thickness of 2 mm), for gates 80×80 and 100×100 mm (with a wall thickness of 3 mm). The wider the pitch of the supports and the greater the load (weight and wind), the greater the size and thickness of the walls.

So for a fence-blinds with a two-meter section, the minimum parameters are selected from the above, for a solid one, and even with forged overlays — the maximum.

If there is no choice of lumber (wood species), then the budget pine is carefully treated with protective chemistry, and the posts must be installed on a concrete base.

For horizontal crossbars, a bar with a section of 30 (enough) x 50 (and wider) mm is used.

For mounting wooden crossbars on a metal pole, «ears» with holes for fasteners are welded to it. To avoid welding during installation, you can purchase ready-made posts with fasteners.

A board 25 mm thick goes to the skin (shield). The width varies depending on the design.

The rest of the technological sequence, the depth and method of laying, up to the chemical treatment of the frame, is the same as for the fence from corrugated board:

  • frame is mounted
  • color,
  • after stuffing the shield.
The most durable will be the connection with self-tapping screws. Choose self-tapping screws, taking into account such a requirement: the body of a wooden pole (crossbar) should include 30-40 mm of thread.

Each board is fixed with at least two screws on each edge.

There are options for a non-standard approach to fastening boards. Here is an example of a fence assembled according to the wattle principle. The curved board, trying to straighten itself, is pressed tightly against the support. Although, given the pliability of wood in a humid environment, additional fixation of each board will still have to be done.

For the fence in the photo above, we used the method of sheathing with wooden siding. Start fastening the boards from the bottom up with an overlap of 2.5 cm.

An interesting novelty is a wooden FENCE-SHUTTER.

If the boards are made with a downward slope towards the street, then an invisible fence will be obtained that will not experience strong wind loads. There are several ways to fix the boards at an angle.

In the photo on the right, wooden lamellas are nailed to a gear rack, which, in turn, is fixed to a support post.

Another way — nail the boards from the end. It is important to clearly mark the wooden rack. This option is relevant for a fence with metal supports. When all sections are filled along the front and back, a board is nailed that will cover the entire «kitchen». A wooden plug must be put on top of the pole.

Are you interested in the question of how to mount the next section if the neighboring section restricts access to it? It is simply slightly pushed out first towards the street, after — the site (or vice versa) in order to fix the lamella. Fastening to a metal support is carried out after the installation of adjacent sections.

Third option for wooden beam support. In it, oblique cut-grooves are made, into which the end of the lamellas is inserted. Each must be screwed with a self-tapping screw, and then a wooden lining is made from the front part, which will hide the attachment points.

In the end, the wooden blinds fence will look like this. Don’t forget to nail the end caps to the top of the post.

Simple horizontal fastening of boards looks boring. But if you make small (up to 1.5 cm) gaps between them, then the canvas of the section will acquire a more modern sound. How atthe same board (within reason), the more interesting and modern the finished fence looks.

It’s also nice to alternate boards of different widths — the main thing is that adjacent sections repeat the pattern.

Do not ignore the unedged board. In addition to being cheaper, it also looks more exclusive. The truth is not suitable for all styles of site design. It will look win-win in the forest.

Here is another option for a brutal style wooden fence.

You will need a jigsaw, a wood carving knife, sanding paper and skillful hands in order to make such an original fence with the effect of a time-worn board.

Have you ever collected puzzles? So, to create these fence sections (pictured above), you first need to draw and carve them from the boards. Each plank of this fence has its own clear size and bend, that is, first they create a template, then they cut it out, chamfer it, grind it, and treat it with protective chemistry. And only after they are knocked down into the section. And how the elements are fixed to each other is the secret of the master …

For the slab fence in the photo above, the entire wane was carefully selected, because it is unacceptable for some sections of the boards to be too thin in thickness. The bark was removed, each plank was given piquant contours with a jigsaw, the surface was polished. In general, the cheap price of the material is covered by painstaking work.

I recommend copying this design exactly in relation to the original, or first create a project (span diagram) of the entire fence, choosing an alternation of drawings. And only after making sure that the whole canvas of the fence looks harmonious, proceed to implementation.

Do not get carried away with such a bright texture for all the wooden elements of the yard. Exclusive only wins when it is unique.

A board with a thickness of 15 mm is quite thin and in a large (longer than 1.2 m) size it may seem unreliable. But for a fence-lattice — it is what you need.

Unedged board, due to its cheapness and beautiful texture, has noticeably increased in price in recent years. However, this does not prevent her from maintaining popularity among owners of plots in forest areas.

Here is a vivid example of how you can beautifully process an unedged board and turn a fence into an exclusive, available for do-it-yourself work.

I do not know how this fence is fixed at the top and bottom. The extreme horizontal strips are too thin, as for wooden ones.

But you already know how to make such a fence-blinds from wood …

If a simple picket fence is duplicated on the reverse side in a checkerboard pattern, it will lose its transparency, but remain just as comfortable and ventilated for plants.

Another variation on the theme of the braided fence. This time it is clear what, where and what is attached.

Again «braid», made in a more aristocratic manner. A great option for both the city and beyond.

Remember the duplicate picket fence. The photo above shows the same, but with the board horizontal.

Figured caps and bent elements of the top involuntarily suggest that they are made, most likely from PVC. Although, it is quite possible that everything is wooden, the arcs are not bent, but sawn according to a pattern. From above, perhaps, a protective strip made of metal or plastic (polycarbonate).

Did you know that a fence on a slope is made with steps of the same height? Well, if the slope of the site is very uneven, then you can deviate from the rule, but make the sections narrower. So the game of height difference will not hurt the eye too much.

And in the standard version, the steps of the intake sections on the site with a slope look like this. as in the top photo.

Horizontally directed spans of unedged boards can look too monotonous. Change the design concept on individual segments — and the fence will become more interesting.

Plank to plank… So you can comment on this perfectly executed fence in the style of modernism from a narrow board.

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