Hozblok in the country — nowhere without it


Hozblok on the new site can become a «pioneer» among the buildings. It is for this reason that it is often made multifunctional.

And it also happens that this term is called a small shed for storing inventory. And also…

Stop, perhaps it is better to start from the beginning and explain everything in order.

So, let’s say you have a completely empty summer cottage, and you need to do something with it: clear somewhere, level somewhere, dig something up.
It is quite possible that until at least some kind of fence appears on six acres, you will regularly carry tools and equipment with you in the car. And if you are not alone in the car, plus tools, then it turns out that there is absolutely nowhere to spend the night. Going out of town with the expectation of returning the same evening is an absolutely irrational decision.

There is only one way out: urgently buy or build a small building from improvised material, in which it will be possible to place all the “useful pieces of iron”, and even arrange an overnight stay.

Such a «temporary night» does not require a large area and can be erected on any elevated part of the site.

On the other hand, you will still spend time building with your own hands, and if so, then it makes sense to invest in building materials to make a more or less decent building.

Buy for her a window that was in use, a door from the same category, put an old bed and you already have a change house at your disposal, which in the future (when you build a country house) can become a multifunctional hozblok, up to a chicken coop.

For building “in haste” I propose to build a wooden frame that will lie on a columnar foundation or a concrete pillow — an inexpensive and quick option to implement, it can take no more than a week in time (a day to fill the foundation, four days to solidify it, a day or two to build frame)

Let’s talk about dimensions. We are talking about buildings with a height of 190 cm and parameters of the order of 2×3 m, 3×4 m, 3×5 m, in which garden tools can be stored at first, later country equipment, bicycles, terrace furniture, an apiary, any of them can be converted into a chicken coop, rabbitry or workshop.
The basis for the frame — pillars made of brick or concrete, laying depth as for a gazebo — somewhere 50 cm deep. Step 1.5 m, no more. An alternative to pillars is a concrete pad: 10 cm thick with reinforcement.

A 10×10 cm beam is laid on the prepared base. bottom and sides are pre-treated with coating waterproofing or indelible antiseptic.

One or two layers of roofing material are preliminarily laid on the pillars as waterproofing.

In the photo on the right: grooves were cut in the beams for half the thickness of the beam, laid on top of each other, secured with a bracket. The board from below is a lining for convenience of work, after it is removed.

Instead of a bracket, a through bolted connection is sometimes used.

Vertical supports are attached to the strapping. To the strapping, the vertical beam is fixed with metal corners and self-tapping screws.

Corner elements must be fixed with oblique struts (photo below).

A horizontal belt of timber is laid on top.

It is easy to “attach” at least a shed, at least a gable roof to a small frame building. In any case, a beam with a section of 10×5 cm and an installation step of no more than 70 cm will go to the rafters.

Does this roof need waterproofing? It all depends on the roofing: for soft tiles, which in itself is a roofing material, no, for a metal profile it is desirable that the condensate does not evaporate inside the building, for slate it is a must.

Next, sheathing is performed with a board: horizontally or vertically — it’s up to you, sheathing in any case will add additional rigidity to the structure.

You can always make a summer kitchen out of an old hozblok …

I am considering just such an option, because I got the hozblok from the previous owners and when I finish building a new house, it will also be rebuilt.

But no matter how convenient it turns out in the future, even now I see the need to put a small shed, no, even an “inventory booth” in the garden.
It’s very inconvenient when you have to run across the entire site for tools, and I don’t have six acres (I don’t know whether to be upset or happy 🙂
You can build a mini-version of the hozblok using any technology, up to buying a booth for a toilet or shower and its “retraining”.
There is an option, for example, to build a building over a well or cellar. As for me, it is quite a good solution to optimize the space.
How it may look externally, I demonstrate in the photo selection below.

Actually, this one is distinguished from the pioneer version only by a more thorough approach to planning and the choice of construction materials.

There are two inexpensive options here: the same frame made of wood and capital made of aerated concrete.

Laying from a gas block on a strip foundation is a costly method, but the construction will be solid, in time the process will drag on for a month, at least.
Under the gas block, the best solution would be a strip foundation or the Tise foundation. Moreover, on heaving soils the second will be preferable.
Since the building is for auxiliary purposes without heating, only strength requirements are imposed on it. That is, a 20 cm thick gas-block wall will be just right. For a small building 3×4 m, it is quite possible to get by with a gas block 15 cm wide.

A tape shallow foundation for such a light building is laid with a total height of not more than 50 cm (30-40 cm deep and 10-20 cm on the base).

Two-tier reinforcement, reinforcement 10, two rods at the bottom, two at the top.
This will be more than enough if Portland cement grade 500 goes into the concrete.
If a hardening accelerator is not added to the solution, then it is undesirable to start laying earlier than 28 days from the moment of pouring.

Why don’t I suggest making a concrete pad? Only because I wouldn’t make such a foundation for myself: in my opinion, it’s costly and for the construction of a gas block is not technologically justified.

Let’s go further … The presence of a plinth does not protect the masonry from moisture, therefore the foundation is covered with a waterproofing tape (roofing material). The first row of the gas block is placed on it.
Since the top edge of the foundation is not perfect, the first row is placed on a concrete mortar to level out the bumps. The subsequent rows are cheaper and faster to put on the glue for the gas block.
Each bricklayer has his own secrets, for example, I start masonry from the corners, pull the twine to control evenness, and then lay out the rest of the walls.
Overlappings for openings (and there are usually no more than two of them: a window and a door) are best made factory-made (with a U-shaped recess, which is filled with mortar).
If there are none for sale nearby blocks, then it will be necessary to make formwork for pouring the floor beams.
In both cases, the concrete is reinforced.

It is not necessary to pour a «crown» of concrete in a small-sized building with a shed roof, at most, to make a «belt» of reinforcement: two rods are placed in grooves that are ditched in the penultimate row.

The ideal roof for an aerated concrete hozblok is a sloping shed: simple, fast, inexpensive. The only «but» is to increase the overlap between the sheets of roofing: not one, but two «waves», whether it be slate or metal profiles. Waterproofing must be laid under the slate (at least from roofing material).

For a soft roof, a slope of at least 150, therefore, a gable roof is more suitable for it. It’s harder, longer and more expensive.

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