Cesspool — cottage with comfort
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When the choice arises: a septic tank or a pit, there can be no definite answer. For example, I always collect complete information on the topic under consideration, then I write in two columns the pros and cons of each option.
If there is a “draw”, I start counting the material costs. It was in this way that in my summer cottage the choice fell in favor of the pit. It is quite possible that my calculations will also be useful to you.
A pit is more profitable than a septic tank when:
- no more than two people live in the house year-round,
- when the house is a cottage with seasonal residence,
- when the pit is not a sealed container, but a well without a bottom with perforated walls and filtration into the soil,
- when a separate pit is allocated for drains from the bathroom, washing machine and shower (and these are the largest «suppliers» of waste), from where water without impurities of fat and large elements simply goes into the ground,
- when the soil in your area is clayey and, in fact, is a natural filter that allows only purified water to pass into the lower layers,
- when the source of drinking water is at a sufficient distance from the pit.
Further details on each item.
The influence of the number of residents on the occupancy of the pit is directly proportional. Provided that all the benefits of civilization are present in the house, and knowing the rate of daily water consumption per person (200 liters), we can assume that a pit with a volume of 3.5 m3 will fill up in about 17 days. And this is when one (!) Person lives in the house.
That is, if the container is sealed, a cesspool is an absolutely impractical solution. In this case, you will simply go broke paying for the services of a sewer.
If the pit is a well without a bottom and with filtration holes in the side walls, most of the drains will be absorbed by the ground and you will not need special equipment services so often.
I have read a lot of information about the fact that a hole in clay soils will have to be emptied more often. Probably, here you need to return to the first point and make sure that the number of people living in the house is no more than two).
Now I live in a house where a hole was dug in solid clay (yellow and thirty meters deep, also clay, it was checked when drilling a well). So, with a volume of 3.5 m3 (they counted just on the volume of the sewer) and the presence of all the benefits in the house, in two years the pit was not filled even by a third.
And for owners of plots with sandy soil, I would not recommend this method of organizing sewage drainage: sand does not filter well and drinking water even from a well located at a depth of 25 meters and a sanitary distance of 25 meters from the pit is doubtful. After all, you do not know where and where the water moves in the underground river. But here, in order not to be unfounded, I think it’s worth making a control water intake and checking its composition (I may be wrong).
Now I am building a new house and I decided to go further in it: to drain relatively “clean” (without fat and feces) water in the garden, I dug and equipped (from used bricks) a separate pit (the snow will melt — I will take a photo).
Water will flow here after taking a bath, shower and from the washing machine. If sometime you have to get rid of the sludge, then special chemicals and a simple drainage pump will suffice. Just in case, the ceiling was made removable: I made two plates with iron hinges. I put it in a hole and buried it, there will be a need for inspection, I will dig it out, it will not be difficult to lift one by the loops together.
Water will flow here after taking a bath, shower and from the washing machine. If sometime you have to get rid of the sludge, then special chemicals and a simple drainage pump will suffice. Just in case, the ceiling was made removable: I made two plates with iron hinges. I put it in a hole and buried it, there will be a need for inspection, I will dig it out, it will not be difficult to lift one by the loops together.
And I equipped a cesspool for pumping out with a sewer closer to the road, but again in the garden, so that the “aromas” after cleaning were not so disturbing.
FROM WHAT TO MAKE A cesspool
For giving, if it is not located in the most prestigious place and, as a result, has low liquidity (when investments do not justify themselves when selling), you always want to choose a cheaper option. But the savings must be reasonable and some of the options presented on the Internet do not stand up to scrutiny.
For example, pit of tires: if you do not cut off the inner rings, each will get a pocket where the dirty “silt” will settle, which, after pumping out, will be compacted due to the evaporation of moisture.
If the rings are cut off, then the stiffening rib will be absent, and when the soil moves, the tires will be deformed.
If you concrete the outside, you get a practically airtight container (the silty bottom has a low ability to absorb), which must be pumped out often, which is expensive.
And the last argument: how many tires are needed for a pit with a volume of 3.5 m3? Considering that they are not lying on the road (at least not in such quantity), the savings are generally doubtful. Knowing the number and diameter, you can estimate the depth of the pit)))
As for me, tires, if you got them for a “penny”, are a great option for a drain pit for “clean” water from a bathroom, shower and washing machine.
Drainage pit lined with bricks, used, the best option. A small price, the quality of Soviet bricks and your skillful hands will create something that will later help you enjoy your dacha as a place of rest from worldly worries.
What configuration to do it? The round-wall construction itself is strong enough, but laying out an even circle is not so easy.
Given the fact that the pit will be located at a depth below the freezing level of the soil, straight walls cannot be considered unreliable, but it is easier to lay them out, as well as calculate the cubic capacity.
Under the brick wall, you need to make a foundation of small thickness and the first two rows of bricks are laid out without gaps. The next rows, up to the level of the sewer pipe, are made with gaps for the exit of excess fluid, due to which the settled water will be absorbed into the soil. The size of the holes is 3-5 cm (less will quickly clog, more will reduce the strength of the walls of the structure).
The bottom of the pit is leveled with a slope towards the center and a small deepening (pit) is made in this place — this way it is faster to remove all residues during pumping. Immediately above the sewer, you can make a concrete floor with a hole measuring 70×70 (it can be round of the same diameter), they are used only if it is necessary to revise the pumped-out pit. The ceiling is poured in place along a removable formwork with mandatory and reliable reinforcement.
It is easier, of course, to buy a ready-made reinforced concrete «tablet» with a hole in advance, and adjust the dimensions of the pit to fit its parameters.
A wall is built around the hole to the ground level and closed with a lid.
It is easier, of course, to buy a ready-made reinforced concrete «tablet» with a hole in advance, and adjust the dimensions of the pit to fit its parameters.
A wall is built around the hole to the ground level and closed with a lid.
An outlet in the form of a pipe with a lid can be made anywhere in the overlap, in the upper part of the side wall, or directly in the sewer.
The gap between the brick and the ground is covered with rubble, it will serve as an additional filter.
Pit made of concrete rings cannot be done without auxiliary equipment, which means that it will be performed by professionals.
It is better to take rings of large diameter, the number of rings with a diameter of 1.5 m is two, this is the optimal size for pumping out with a sewer with a tank of 4 m3.
Rings are chosen perforated, in solid holes the pit will fill up too quickly.
PIT CLEANING PROCEDURE
A week before pumping out, a special powder is poured into the pit to dissolve large elements. Powders with live bacteria are suitable where chemicals for cleaning and washing dishes are not used. In other cases, funds intended for drain pits with household waste are required.
Immediately after the procedure, it is advisable to rinse the walls with water under high pressure, which will help clean the filtration holes. It is not necessary to go down into the pit for this, it is enough to lower the hose there on a rigid mount with a long handle and wash the walls, moving in a circle from top to bottom.
What else to read on the site:
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