Corrugated fence: important points


Decking very quickly «won the hearts» of homeowners, not only because of the bright colors of metal profile manufacturers.

In terms of price category, such a fence is between the budget option from the grid and the masterfully executed wooden one.

And considering baboutMore durable than wood and less visible than mesh, it is quite predictable that there will be an increased demand for this type of fencing.

Yes, indeed, a high-quality fence made of corrugated board will serve you faithfully for more than 20 years without requiring any maintenance.

Such resistance is due to the polymer coating of the metal from which the profiled sheet is made.

For those who have a welding machine (or the ability to rent it), a fence can cost less than a turnkey one. But, as they say, nothing is given for free — it will take a lot of effort to competently do the installation with your own hands.


Sufficient rigidity will be provided by a profiled sheet marked «C» (wall) and a corrugation height of 13 to 44 mm (indicated immediately after the letter).

There is another important indicator on which the price depends, this sheet thickness. It happens from 0.28 to 8 mm. All thickness options up to 0.45 mm are for temporary fences, wall cladding and places protected from the wind. For a fence, an option from 0.45 mm to 0.7 mm will do, and the latter indicator is the most optimal.

Decking can be galvanized (estimated service life 20 years) and coated with a polymer layer (will last more than 30 years).

You choose the direction of the wave on the fence section: horizontally or vertically.

With a vertical arrangement of the wave, the higher the fence, the more the height of the corrugation is chosen. For orientation: for a fence with a height of about 2 m, a corrugation height of 21 mm is sufficient.

The corrugation pattern can be any, but the points of contact (attachment) of the sheet with the frame must be flat. Given the washable characteristics, a pattern with a trapezoidal section is most acceptable.

On the street often come across fences that have faded in the sun. Of course, part of the blame for this can be shifted to the manufacturer, however, in addition to the responsible seller, there is also the notorious «human factor» — we all strive to buy something cheaper.

So, when we are offered when ordering choice between glossy and matte sheet, glossy wins. But the matte is covered with varnish, which gives additional protection against UV and fading, as a result.


SUPPORTS. For vertical racks, a metal profile made of galvanized steel with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm, a square section of 60 x 60 mm (preferred) or a round one with a diameter of 76 mm is chosen.

The first thing to do on the ground is marking the fence line. To do this, pull the rope tightly and drive in pegs along this line (to fix the rope contour).

Next, markup is made for the supporting pillars.

The pitch of the supports is 2-3 m, the pillar is immersed in the ground by a third of its height. The compaction of the support site is done by backfilling and tamping with crushed stone of a fraction of 20 mm (this will help to avoid displacement during the period of heaving of the soil).

The scheme of fastening the pillars in the ground is as follows:

It is possible to reduce the immersion depth of the column if its base is concreted, for this you will need to dig a trench under the foundation with a size of at least 40 x 40 cm and a depth of 60-80 cm.

Under options No. 3 and 4 (see Fig.), a square-shaped trench is dug with a bayonet shovel, the bottom of the pit is covered with drainage (rubble), and after pouring the concrete solution, the column is fixed with spacers and its verticality is checked with a building level or plumb line.

Wells for the supports of the intake section for options 1 and 2 are drilled.

You can buy a garden drill in an online store or at firms specializing in garden equipment.

The tool is useful and after the installation of the fence will become an indispensable assistant in the processing of the garden.

BEAM. When the supports are installed, the horizontal crossbars begin to be fixed.

A profile with a section of 20 (25) x 40 mm and a wall thickness of 2 mm is suitable as a horizontal frame beam.

The step of the horizontal bars is taken from the calculation no further than 110 cm from each other and 30-40 cm from the upper and lower edges. Thus, for a fence up to 180 cm high, two crossbars are enough. For a higher fence, the distance between the lags is reduced by installing an additional crossbar. Indeed, with a strong side wind, the sheet will “sail”, which will create an unpleasant sound background.

fence on a plot with a height difference

Before mounting the profiled sheet, the frame is primed and painted with enamel.


The connecting fastening of the frame is performed by a welded method.

The corrugated board is overlapped with metal screws or rivets (more reliable, but requires work skills).

The fastening step (according to the standard) is no more than 500 mm, but in fact, the one who makes the fence for himself fastens with an interval “through the wave”.


Extend the service life of the protective profile-visor above the upper edge of the sheet.

For the upper cut of the supports, protective caps are used, or the upper edge is welded with a plug even before installation begins.

Self-tapping screws can be selected with polymer coating in the color of the fence. They are equipped with rubber gaskets, which additionally protects the mounting points.


There is no doubt that the arrangement of a concrete base (foundation) at the base of the corrugated fence will result in a substantial amount if you have to protect a large perimeter. How to reduce the cost of building a fence without changing the design and is it possible at all? Maybe. In the photo below, an already implemented project with an imitation of a concrete foundation.

How to make such a base:

  • the step of the supports is equal to the length of the concrete fence section (2 m)
  • method of mounting pillars — digging to the depth of soil freezing and concreting (preferably)
  • the method of fastening the concrete section is with a corner (channel), first the bottom is welded, then the section is installed and the top is welded (see photo below).


The first thing that can be seen from afar is the color of the fence and the roof of the house. For this reason, you should choose the color design so as to create a harmonious combination.

This does not mean at all that red tiles and fences will need red. It would be logical to stop at a moderately brown fence.

The brown roof goes well with the dark green color.

Gray and muted blue (blue) also look good in a pair.

Another point regarding color: landscaping the yard will look advantageous on a brown and gray background, but it will merge with blue or light green (but these colors are good to use to visually expand the site).

Red and burgundy are somewhat unusual shades and will immediately attract the eye, such a fence should have an impeccable design. To «extinguish» a bright shade will help the contrast with the supports of gray stone.

White color always looks elegant. And in the case of a fence — especially, because when the area in front of the fence made of corrugated board is overgrown with greenery, each plant will stand out as clearly as possible on a white background.

In the photo above, each section was “edged” with a channel, which was painted black, which gave the outlines of the fence clarity and some kind of solemnity.

Such an extraordinary approach to choosing the color of a profiled sheet is good for fencing large areas with boring gray architecture. Firstly, it will deprive the long tape of the fence of monotony, and secondly, it will divert attention from the buildings. However, such a variety of colors may be associated with banal savings: the remains of different colors could well be sold at a very favorable price. In any case, it turned out very interesting.

The color burgundy (along with chocolate brown) is most loved by private sector developers both in the city and beyond. Because it looks elegant, because it contrasts favorably both against the background of bright greenery and next to plastered facades.

In the photo, the buta foundation was covered with a protective visor made of metal tiles of the same color as the fence.

The easiest way not to go beyond good taste is to use no more than three colors in the design of buildings and fences. This rule was followed when creating the design of the house and yard shown in this photo: White stucco, accentuated by brown trim and gray stone texture at the base…

Fans of the texture of red brick, probably. it will be interesting how it combines with other colors. In this photo, a pair of bottle-colored corrugated board was chosen for the brick pillars.

And here the sky-blue brick made up the company of the red brick. Agree, there is clearly a lack of a brick building behind the fence. Well, to be more picky, then brown clinker will be more appealing to this shade of blue.

Do you think a simple metal profile is a rather boring surface? In the photo above, everything was “squeezed” out of it: a bright color was framed with a black edging, a wavy upper contour was created, to top it all, black forging inserts were made against a polycarbonate background.

Well, this fence from a sea-green metal profile was completely duplicated by forging.

An alternative to the monochrome surface of a profiled sheet is a print imitating a stone surface. It may be that such a fence does not create a complete illusion of a stone, but against the background of landscaping, its monochrome counterparts look more harmonious.

In the photo above — no imitation. Everything is real: dark brown corrugated board as sections and stone in the foundation and cladding of the pillars.

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