Swimming pool, mini-pool, SPA-zone


I decided to touch on the topic of a mini-reservoir for swimming, because for me it is relevant I am faced with a choice: to plan the construction of a swimming lane or a mini-pool the size of a bath.

Just a swimming pool in the yard (and this is my personal opinion) I consider it an unreasonable luxury.

Since the costs of both construction and maintenance are off scale, but in reality in a year (when the excitement subsides), as practice shows, this structure will be used only from time to time.

A swim lane is a more practical, albeit expensive, facility. It is built in order to train, swimming more or less long distances. This allows sports people to keep fit, and those who suffer from diseases with the prefix «osteo» to train muscles with minimal stress on the spine.

But the outdoor pool is conserved for the winter, and playing sports is a year-round business, because this option requires covering and heating the water, which makes the construction even more expensive. An annual subscription to the pool will cost several times cheaper)))

For other categories of residents of suburban areas, a hydromassage complex, a mini-pool or just a bathing suit are more suitable. Here you can relieve muscle tension, cool your body in hot weather or take a contrast dip after a bath.
At first, the set of functions may seem limited to you, but remember what your family usually does at sea: in most cases, splashing in the water, plunging into it up to the neck and periodically diving.
Another plus of the bath is accessibility. If many people only dream of a pool, then a swimming pool in the yard is a real solution. You can buy it, which is quick and within a thousand dollars, or build it yourself, which is cheaper, but requires knowledge and skills in working with concrete.


Ideally near the south terrace. If it’s southeast, or southwest, even better. No deciduous trees nearby, otherwise the water will become clogged in autumn. The best choice for creating light shading by the pool is a row of columnar conifers no closer than 1 m on the south side.


Most of the options are offered by the independent production of a concrete mini-pool: you yourself adjust the dimensions, configuration and depth, based on your own needs.

The comfortable depth of the structure is 160 cm, and the minimum linear size of the mini-pool must correspond to human height (at least two meters).

What is the height of the sides above the ground? A safe height is above 80 cm, but such a pool should be equipped with comfortable and non-slippery steps.

A good view of the pool mirror (to watch the children while swimming) at structures with sides flush with the ground and a little higher, however, such bowls are fenced or placed in a place where there is no free access for kids.

It will be useful if you mount a convenient handle in one of the sides, thanks to which you can stay horizontally on the surface of the water (a very useful procedure).

It is advisable to make steps inside the bowl in the corner — there they will interfere less. If the configuration allows, it is desirable to make a shelf on at least one side (a ledge with a depth of at least 50 cm) for sitting.
Whatever the size of the bath, the water must be filtered in it. The filter is selected based on the volume of the water facility. A hole for water intake is made at the bottom level, and the inflow can be arranged just below the waterline or much higher (waterfall effect).
A concrete bowl is constructed using removable formwork with mandatory reinforcement. When pouring the sides into concrete, a vibrator is immersed every 50 cm, which causes the plastic mass to be distributed more evenly, preventing the formation of shells (holes from air bubbles).

Is it necessary to line the pool from the inside if the walls are already smooth? It is necessary, because even if you treated the concrete with hydrophobic impregnation, sooner or later it will wash off, the walls will begin to become covered with microalgae and collapse. This process, although lengthy, is unhygienic.

The photo shows the construction of a utility block, but the principle of construction is the same: pouring hollow blocks with reinforcement

For self-manufacturing of the pool bowl, the method of construction from fixed formwork is more accessible, but all with the same reinforcement and pouring concrete into the cavities.

Important point: Such a design will be vulnerable in the part that protrudes above the ground. The design will be made solid by the armored belt in the area of ​​​​the proposed waterline.

A bowl of fixed formwork must be plastered from the inside.

The best waterproofing of the pool bowl is coating. If the walls are perfectly smooth after waterproofing treatment, they can be sealed with a special film for pools.

In other cases, glass tiles — mosaic or stone tiles — will be the best solution. Not cheap, but hygienic, long-lasting and very beautiful. Adhesive for tiles and grout is chosen specifically for pools.

IMPORTANT: if you finish the pool with a film, its walls:

  • should be above the ground
  • or should not come into contact with the ground (for this purpose, the outside of the bowl is glued with foam plastic no thinner than 5 cm).

They do this because such a pool cannot winter with water, and without water and a compensator (styrofoam), it will be crushed by expanding soil.


If you decide to limit yourself to a purchased building, then a mini-SPA with hydromassage is at your service. The thing is interesting and quite useful. A huge plus is muscle massage, a minus is a shallow depth.

This choice is more suitable for lovers of lazy relaxation in the style of luxury and the elderly (for them, this is just a godsend).


A small fiberglass mini-pool or hot tub is a great way to get things done quickly. There will be no hydromassage function here, but there is depth or the ability to stretch out on the surface of the water to its full height, which is very useful for the skeleton and the muscles that support it.


The font in ancient times was made of moisture-resistant wood (oak, larch), such it has come down to us. Its outlines are predominantly rounded, it is pulled together in the old fashioned way with metal rims. As a rule, they make it manually, and buy it unassembled via the Internet, and then assemble it according to the instructions.


Alas, any non-indoor pool needs conservation for the winter. Why is all the water drained from it, the walls are cleaned, washed, the pipes of the drain system and water supply are blown, the pump and filter are dismantled.

Further actions depend on what type of pool bowl. The pool winters dry:

  • if the bowl is made of fiberglass or glued on the inside with a film,
  • if the concrete bowl is above ground level or only slightly buried in it,
  • if it is almost completely buried in the ground, but the walls do not directly contact the ground,
  • if the soil in your climate does not freeze through.

Be sure to cover the pool bowl with shields and an awning and do not open until the moment of re-preservation.

A concrete pool should be filled with water if the bowl is completely buried in the ground, and the walls are in contact with it, otherwise the frozen ground will expand and push through even thick concrete.

Before filling the bowl, lighting devices, nozzles, and metal elements are dismantled from it. Foam plugs are placed in all recesses (niches, drain holes, nozzles).

Water is poured 10 cm below the ground level, while 7 cm below the nozzles (this is why it is important to observe the correct height of the water intake holes in the pool).

The water mirror will definitely freeze so that the finish of the bowl is not damaged, compensators are installed on the water: any (preferably floating) objects that have elastic properties (polystyrene, plastic canisters).

They are sunk with weights so that they are at the level of the waterline. When frost breaks out, compensators level the pressure of expanding ice on the walls of the pool bowl.

In any case, the bowl is additionally covered with shields.

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